Fondue, That is Still a Thing?

• Posted on 7 January 2025
• Posted in California, chassalas, france
• 0

After a day carving through the snow-covered Alps, there’s nothing quite like gathering with friends around a steaming pot of fondue, accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine. It’s the ultimate après-ski ritual, combining warmth, flavor, and camaraderie. Whether you’re dining at a family-run chalet in a mountain village, or exploring the cobblestone streets of Geneva’s Old Town, fondue is as quintessentially Swiss as their iconic chocolate or precision-crafted watches.

The word fondue comes from the French verb fondre, meaning “to melt,” and translates directly as “melted.” Its first appearance in French was in 1735 in Vincent La Chapelle’s Cuisinier moderne, and it entered the English language in 1878. Initially, the term referred to dishes combining cheese and eggs, resembling something between scrambled eggs and a cheese soufflé.

Although fondue is now synonymous with Switzerland, its roots trace back much farther. Around 800–725 BCE, Homer’s Iliad described a dish made of goat’s cheese, wine, and flour—a precursor to the modern dish. Centuries later, fondue as we know it began to take shape in the 18th century in Switzerland. Alpine villagers, facing harsh winters, created a practical dish using aged cheese, stale bread, and wine. Bread, often baked infrequently, would harden over time, but dipping it into melted cheese softened it, transforming simple ingredients into a communal meal.

The earliest recipe resembling modern fondue appeared in a 1699 Zürich cookbook under the title Käss mit Wein zu kochen (“to cook cheese with wine”). It called for grated or cut-up cheese melted with wine, served with bread for dipping. What began as a dish of necessity, made from leftover ingredients, gradually evolved. In the French Rhône-Alpes region, peasants used cheese rinds, strong alcohol, and crusty bread to sustain themselves during the cold months. Meanwhile, town dwellers in French-speaking Switzerland embraced the dish, refining it with rich cheeses like Gruyère and Vacherin, which were initially too valuable for widespread rural use.

By 1875, a recipe for cheese fondue (without eggs) had been published, marking its recognition as a Swiss national dish. The addition of cornstarch in 1905 further improved its consistency, making preparation easier and expanding its appeal.

Fondue’s rise to cultural prominence was propelled in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion), which promoted it as a symbol of Swiss unity. The Union’s marketing campaigns emphasized fondue’s communal and national significance, creating regional variations, and even distributing fondue sets to Swiss military regiments. Following World War II, as rationing ended, fondue was transformed from a rural necessity into a glamorous après-ski tradition enjoyed by the wealthy.

The dish’s popularity soon spread beyond Switzerland. In 1964, fondue was showcased at the Swiss Pavilion of the New York World’s Fair, introducing it to a global audience. Americans, captivated by its interactive and communal nature, embraced it as a dinner party staple in the 1960s and 1970s. Swiss and German immigrants brought fondue traditions to places like Wisconsin, further embedding it into culinary culture.

Fondue comes in four distinct varieties, each offering a unique experience.

Cheese fondue is perhaps the most iconic. Depending on the region, the cheese combinations vary, but the most popular is moitié-moitié, meaning “half and half.” This blend typically combines Gruyère with a cow’s milk cheese such as Raclette, Appenzeller, Emmentaler, or Vacherin Fribourgeois. In classic Swiss recipes, two cheeses are used—one for flavor and another for texture—along with kirsch for aroma, garlic for zest, and a crisp white wine to bring everything together. The wine also helps to keep the cheese from becoming too stringy.

Traditional Swiss fondue features gruyère and emmentaler cheese, combined with flour, garlic, and a dry wine, sometimes enhanced with spices like paprika, nutmeg, or cayenne. Regional variations substitute appenzeller cheese for emmentaler in some areas, while accompaniments include crusty bread, diced potatoes, cornichons, and pickles. Gruyère, with its rich, nutty flavor, has ancient roots, enjoyed by Romans and named in the Middle Ages. The cheese is meticulously crafted from the milk of grass-fed cows, and aged in high-humidity cellars for up to three years. Its flavor evolves with age, gaining sharper, hazelnut and caramel notes.

In France, fondue varies by region. The Savoyarde style combines cheeses like Beaufort, Abondance, or equivalents of Gruyère and Emmental. The Jurassienne highlights Comté, while the Auvergnate blends Saint-Nectaire, Cantal, and Fourme d’Ambert. Italian variations like fonduta alla valdostana in Aosta Valley use Fontina, milk, and eggs, creating a creamy custard-like dish.

Unlike Swiss recipes, Italian fondue often skips wine, instead incorporating butter, milk, and egg yolks for a rich, savory experience.

Beyond cheese, meat fondue emerged in the Middle Ages in Burgundy. Peasants working long hours would cook skewered meat in a communal pot of boiling oil, creating Fondue Bourguignonne. This hearty tradition continues, offering a satisfying way to prepare tender, flavorful meats.

A lighter alternative, broth fondue, owes its origins to a Swiss traveler who experienced a Chinese hotpot and brought the concept back home. Known as Fondue Court Bouillon, this method uses a seasoned broth to cook meats slowly, infusing them with subtle flavors. Broth-based fondues are often paired with dipping sauces inspired by global cuisines. From Tunisia and Algeria comes a spicy harissa-tomato sauce, while India offers a curry-tomato blend. Hungary contributes paprika-based sauces, and Bulgaria combines mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and demi-glace. Provence adds mayonnaise-based sauces like aioli, Dijonaisse, or horseradish mayonnaise to the mix.

Chocolate fondue, a modern addition to the fondue repertoire, is believed to have been invented in the 20th century, possibly in America or as a French chef’s Toblerone promotion. Regardless of its origins, chocolate fondue is beloved worldwide. It pairs perfectly with items like cookies, pound cake, brownies, Rice Krispie Treats, meringues, and even candy.

Whatever type of fondue you choose—whether melted cheese, savory meats, or indulgent chocolate—its charm lies in the communal nature of the meal. Sharing the experience with good company makes every bite even more memorable.

Preparation

For the Swiss, fondue is not just a meal—When out and about asking a local, they will tell you the best fondue is the one from home. To create an authentic cheese fondue, start by selecting high-quality, meltable cheeses. The locals might start with a visit to a farmers’ market, like the bustling marché outside Geneva’s Halle de Rive, where dairy trucks offer ready-made fondue mixes of grated cheeses. Here in the States you can pick up a box from City Vino of a mix of Emmentaler and  Gruyère. For a creative twist, consider cheeses like gouda, provolone, cheddar, or Monterey Jack, which also melt smoothly into a creamy consistency.

If you happen to pick up a kit, there are some funny number of servings. Something like this package is meant for two adult Swiss or six adult Americans. We can’t eat as much cheese? So true ... nope, we don’t eat that much cheese!

An authentic fondue set is essential. Skip tourist shops and head to department stores or upscale shops like Globus, where you’ll find caquelons—traditional earthenware pots often adorned with Swiss flag motifs or vintage detailing. These pots heat evenly and retain warmth, ensuring your fondue stays perfect throughout the meal. Start with a bit of Chassalas, and as it warms, add the cheese. It is really as easy as that.

You can flavor your fondue with mountain herbs, nutmeg, mustard, or even a hint of tomato coulis. Bread is the classic accompaniment—sturdy white or brown bread cut into bite-sized cubes—but potatoes, cornichons, and pickled pearl onions also pair beautifully. 

Consumption and Etiquette

Fondue is served family-style, making it a cozy, communal dish. Each diner skewers a piece of bread or other accompaniment, dips it into the bubbling cheese, and swirls gently to coat the morsel. Take care not to soak the bread too long—it might disintegrate and fall into the pot! Losing your bread is considered a faux pas, often met with playful penalties like buying a round of drinks or washing the dishes.

Stir the cheese occasionally in a figure-eight motion to prevent sticking and ensure even consistency. As the meal progresses, the cheese at the bottom of the caquelon may form a dark, crispy layer called the religieuse. This crust is a delicacy and is often shared as a special treat at the end of the meal.

While bread is the classic dipper, feel free to get creative—fruits, vegetables, and even meats are delightful when coated in melted cheese. In fact, nearly anything tastes better with cheese!

A Seasonal Tradition

Although tourists might indulge year-round, fondue remains a wintertime comfort food for the Swiss. Its rich, warming flavors make it the perfect meal for chilly evenings. Enjoyed in homes and traditional restaurants across Switzerland, fondue is most common in rural areas or regions with deep culinary traditions. However, it’s rarely found in fine dining establishments, as the strong aroma might overshadow other dishes. Whether you’re enjoying fondue as a main course, appetizer, or dessert (think chocolate fondue), the focus remains the same—savoring delicious food while sharing good company.

As the evening winds down, fondue remains a timeless reminder of Swiss hospitality and tradition. Whether you’re savoring the last bites of cheese or indulging in a decadent chocolate dip, the experience is about more than just the meal. It’s about connection—sharing stories, laughter, and warmth with those gathered around the table. From the snow-covered Alps to the cozy corners of homes across the globe, fondue continues to bring people together, turning a simple dish into an unforgettable experience. And as you raise your glass of chilled white wine, you can’t help but smile, knowing that some traditions are as rich as the cheese itself.