Honestly Sancerre

• Posted on 8 May 2024
• Posted in france, Sauvignon Blanc
• 0

You gotta be Sancerre! You gotta be Sancerre! You gotta feel it here, ’Cause if you feel it here, well, then you’re gonna be honestly Sancerre! Conrad Birdie (Bye, Bye, Birdie) understood how to get to a woman’s heart! Take a tip for Mother’s day! Up in the Loire Valley of France, in the Centre Région, you can find the most beautiful, high-acid, medium-body, food-friendly wine, with a little chill on it. After all, the farmer’s markets are bringing in those raspberries, strawberries, rhubarb, crisp lettuce, and melons. All of which will sit well next to your glass of Pinot Noir. You thought Sancerre only meant Sauvignon Blanc? Honestly, sincere!

You gotta be Sancerre! You gotta be Sancerre! You gotta feel it here, ’Cause if you feel it here, well, then you’re gonna be honestly Sancerre! Conrad Birdie (Bye, Bye, Birdie) understood how to get to a woman’s heart! Take a tip for Mother’s day! Up in the Loire Valley of France, in the Centre Région, you can find the most beautiful, high-acid, medium-body, food-friendly wine, with a little chill on it. After all, the farmer’s markets are bringing in those raspberries, strawberries, rhubarb, crisp lettuce, and melons. All of which will sit well next to your glass of Pinot Noir. You thought Sancerre only meant Sauvignon Blanc? Honestly, sincere!

One of the prettiest wines at City Vino is the 2022 Alphones Mellot la Moussiere from Sancerre, France. Straw-lemon hue in the glass. The nose is filled with scents of crushed chalk, gooseberry, vanilla orchid, and orange pip. The palate is equally expressive and generous with gooseberry, apricot, lemon, wet stone, slate, herby daisies, vanilla flowers, sappy and pithy fruit, rich full flavors. Slightly softer acidity than other Sancerre’s due to the eight months lees aging, which also give it a slight buttercream note. The wine ends with a long confident finish that is memorable. Perfect food pairings with a sampling of complementary flavors, like braised fennel with goat milk yogurt and celery, or contradictory flavors of mussels with a white wine butter sauce and puff pastry.

Let’s explore the climatic influence that begins with moisture-laden winds originating from the northern English Channel area, that traverse through the Paris Basin, bringing vital precipitation to France's primary agricultural regions. Sancerre, though centrally located, would experience a notably drier climate were it not for this crucial moisture supply. The wind collects on the southwestern side of the basin, funneling through the Rhone Valley, and onward to the Mediterranean. Historically dubbed the “Granary of France,” the Paris Basin is renowned for its abundant agricultural output, including cereals, civilization, and esteemed wine regions like Champagne and Chablis.

However, Sancerre's climate narrative extends beyond the influence of the Paris Basin. The Loire River, coursing through the southern reaches of the basin, plays a substantial role in shaping Sancerre’s microclimate. Situated inland, Sancerre experiences a continental climate characterized by harsh winters, scorching summers, and limited rainfall. Yet, the Loire River acts as a mitigating force against these extremes, providing essential rain to the region. Despite this, challenges persist, such as spring frosts threatening flowering, and summer hailstorms endangering fruit growth. Nevertheless, strategic vineyard practices, including planting on steep slopes and embracing sustainable farming techniques, help mitigate these risks.

Moreover, Sancerre’s viticultural excellence owes much to its diverse soil composition. Here, the roots of the vines delve deep into Kimmeridgian Limestone, a geological formation rich in calcium carbonate derived from ancient corals and shellfish. This limestone-based soil, akin to that found in neighboring Chablis and Champagne, imparts distinct mineral qualities to Sancerre’s wines. Furthermore, variations in soil types—Cillottes, Terre Blanches, and Silex—add further complexity, contributing to Sancerre’s renowned terroir and its esteemed reputation as a premier wine producing region.

What makes this a region of sincerity? Sancerre’s beginings trace back to around 60 AD, when it potentially bore the name Gortona and served as a strategic port held by Gallo-Roman inhabitants. Positioned atop a hill overlooking the Loire River, it boasted defensibility, and facilitated vital transport for wines to other regions. Pliny the Younger—an esteemed figure of Ancient Rome—referenced a grape variety called Bitruious, cultivated by Celtic tribes in the region prior to the Roman conquest of Gaul.

Wine production in Sancerre gained prominence in 313 AD, when Emperor Constantine declared Christianity the official state religion throughout the Empire, leading to increased popularity and consumption among the Christianized Gallo-Roman citizens. By 582 AD, Gregory of Tours mentioned Sancerre’s vineyards in his writings, contributing to its growing reputation.

The 11th and 12th centuries saw flourishing vineyards, thanks to the efforts of Augustinian monks from the nearby Abbey of Saint-Satur and the influential House of the Counts of Sancerre. Notably, Jean of France, Duke of Berry, lauded Sancerre’s wines as the finest in the kingdom, with a famous red wine predominantly made from Pinot Noir exported via the Loire.

Throughout history, Sancerre faced various challenges, including the infamous Siege of Sancerre during the French Wars of Religion, where the Huguenot population endured a lengthy siege against Catholic forces. Later, in the early 17th century, King Louis XIII imposed restrictions on vine planting, further compounded by disasters, such as the appearance of Oidium in the 1850s, and the devastating Phylloxera epidemic in the 1860s.

Despite these setbacks, Sancerre’s vineyards were eventually replanted with Sauvignon Blanc vines grafted onto resistant American rootstocks, from 1893 onward. This strategic move, partly influenced by the inability to supply Pinot Noir to Champagne due to rule changes, propelled Sancerre into global prominence, paving the way for its esteemed status in the world of wine.

In the aftermath of World War II, Sancerre emerged as a darling of Parisian bistros, where its exceptional food-pairing capabilities garnered genuine acclaim. Honestly sincere in its appeal, this wine found its way onto tables worldwide, becoming a cherished favorite well into the late twentieth century. With only 14 villages granted the esteemed right to produce Sancerre, encompassing over 2,800 hectares of vineyards, including the esteemed Pinot Noir, its exclusivity only added to its allure.

Classic examples of Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc, bone-dry with flinty, chalky, and lively citrus notes, received their prestigious AOC classification in 1936, solidifying their place among the world’s finest wines. Meanwhile, the reds, granted AOC status in 1959, contribute to around 15 percent of Sancerre’s production, crafted exclusively from the noble Pinot Noir grape variety.

By 1990, a resurgence of interest in Sancerre’s roots led top producers to refocus on crafting high-quality Pinot Noirs. With meticulous attention to detail, they reduced yields and implemented selective picking, aiming for wines with heightened depth and complexity. The result? Sancerre Rouge, a trendsetter in the global wine scene, though modestly labeled sans grape names, captures hearts and palates alike.

Despite its tumultuous past, Sancerre proudly preserves its architectural heritage, with 15th-century dwellings standing as testament to its enduring spirit. Today, the town stands as a beacon of resilience, innovation, and the timeless legacy of winemaking. Its charming streets beckon exploration, enticing visitors to linger in cafes and restaurants, indulging in the region’s famous wines. Indeed, whether white or red, it’s the wine that truly draws visitors to the enchanting enclave of Sancerre—a fitting tribute on Mother’s Day or any day of celebration.

of resilience, innovation, and the timeless legacy of winemaking. Its charming streets beckon exploration, enticing visitors to linger in cafes and restaurants, indulging in the region's famous wines. Indeed, whether white or red, it's the wine that truly draws visitors to the enchanting enclave of Sancerre, a fitting tribute on Mother's Day or any day of celebration.