Turning Tradition Upside Down: A Winter White Sauvignon Blanc

• Posted on 2 January 2025
• Posted in france, Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa
• 0

As you become more familiar with wines from around the world, certain regions evoke specific adjectives that describe their wines. Would it turn your world upside down to encounter a white wine from Bordeaux, or a red wine from the Loire Valley? Perhaps. Perhaps not. These are not the grand, well-known productions their opposites might be, but they certainly have the potential to surprise and delight.

We once received a request from a wine club member for an oaked Sauvignon Blanc to pair with a dinner they were attending that evening. At the time, we had none on our shelves, but the idea stuck with us: Yes, indeed, that would be a special wine. After all, most Sauvignon Blancs are fermented in stainless steel and see little intervention beyond that. Providentially, one of our vendors later introduced us to a wine that fit the bill perfectly, and it led us to fall in love with the wines of Lismore Estate.

Samantha O’Keefe, a political science graduate with a background in television, left Los Angeles in 2000 to embark on a bold new journey in South Africa. She discovered, and fell in love with, a 300-hectare ranch named Riviersonderend, nestled in the shadow of the mountain range that shares its name. There, she built her house, planted vines, and established a winery. By 2003, Lismore Estate Vineyards was born, with the inaugural vintage released in 2008. Samantha’s wines quickly captured the attention of top journalists, and in 2018, she became only the sixth woman inducted into the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild.

The Overberg region, where Lismore is located, is gaining acclaim for its premium cool-climate grapes. Within this district, the Greyton ward has been officially designated, highlighting the unique terroir of the area. Remarkably, Lismore is the only registered wine estate in the Greyton ward, making its wines even more exceptional.

This week’s “upside-down, backward” wine is the 2021 Lismore Estate Vineyards Greyton Sauvignon Blanc, from South Africa’s Western Cape. Unlike the standard method of fermenting Sauvignon Blanc in stainless steel, Samantha chosen a more unconventional approach. Part of the wine was fermented in barrels, where it remained in contact with the lees (the residual yeast and particles from fermentation) to develop complexity. The remainder was fermented and matured in a concrete egg, adding further depth and nuance.

We had some fun with this wine at City Vino, inviting customers to taste it blind and guess what they were drinking. The results were fascinating—many found it perplexing, as the wine displayed characteristics reminiscent of an oaked Chardonnay, yet retained the signature freshness of Sauvignon Blanc.

The tasting notes tell the story: aromas of citrus, gardenia, vanilla, char, and toast, with lemon-lime and a subtle hint of gooseberry. The palate reveals layers of Asian pear, guava, fresh sea spray, grassy notes, white asparagus, and a touch of ginger. The wine’s mouthfeel is slightly oxidative from barrel aging, lending it a creamy texture and full body. This is a dry wine, with medium-plus acidity and a long, smoky, fruit-cup finish—a truly unique expression of Sauvignon Blanc and an ideal white wine for winter.

It was amusing to watch customers’ reactions as they learned this was a Sauvignon Blanc. At first, there was shock and disbelief. But once the surprise faded, the wine’s charm took over. Its creamy texture, smoky undertones, and bold fruit were complemented by the varietal’s signature grassy brightness, creating a wine that defied expectations and delighted the senses. This oaked Sauvignon Blanc proved to be a revelation—a distinctive and memorable choice, perfect for savoring during the colder months.