Sustainable Wine: More Than a Green Label

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Sustainable Wine: More Than a Green Label

When you hear the words “sustainable wine,” what comes to mind? Solar panels on a winery roof? Organic grapes? Maybe a bottle made from lighter glass? Those are certainly pieces of the puzzle. But sustainability in wine is much bigger and much more interesting than a list of environmentally friendly practices. At its heart, sustainable winegrowing is about finding a way to produce high-quality grapes and wine while protecting the land, the people who work it, and the communities that depend on it. The Wine Institute describes sustainable winegrowing as environmentally sound, socially equitable, and economically viable. Those three ideas—environmental health, social equality, and economic vitality—are the foundation.

And here’s where it gets interesting: There isn’t one recipe for sustainability. What makes sense in California may not make sense in Virginia. A vineyard struggling with drought has very different problems from one fighting humidity. A winery in Sicily may be looking at energy consumption, while one in Australia is figuring out how to manage an entire river system. In other words, sustainability begins with a simple question: What does this particular place need?

Before we go any farther, it helps to clear up some terminology. Sustainable, organic, biodynamic, and natural wine are not interchangeable terms. The requirements can vary between countries and even between states, and each approach has a different philosophy and set of practices.

  • Sustainable farming takes the broadest view. It considers the health of the soil, the vineyard ecosystem, water, energy, employees, the surrounding community, and the economic viability of the operation.
  • Organic farming generally eliminates synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides, although certain substances including copper compounds may still be permitted.
  • Biodynamic farming takes an even more holistic approach, incorporating biodiversity and the ideas developed by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s.
  • And then there is natural wine, which is perhaps the hardest of all to define. Even Jancis Robinson has noted the difficulty of establishing an absolute definition. In practice, natural winemaking generally seeks to intervene as little as possible, often beginning with organically farmed grapes and limiting additions and cellar techniques such as sulfur dioxide, filtration, clarification, and chaptalization (adding sugar to the juice but when the fruit didn’t make enough in the vineyards. This is done so that when the wine is fermented, it gets to a stable ABV).

But here’s the important part. Sustainable doesn’t necessarily mean organic. Organic doesn't necessarily mean sustainable. And natural doesn’t automatically mean environmentally sustainable. Sustainability asks us to look at the whole system.

Sometimes sustainability looks like an airplane. In California’s Lodi region, the Michael David Winery, known for wines such as Petite Petit, Freakshow, Seven Deadly Zins, and Lust, was among the wineries involved in developing the Lodi Rules. The idea wasn’t simply to create another set of rules. It was about growers putting aside individual egos and coming together as a community to hold one another to a higher standard of farming. Today, technology is part of that effort. Michael David uses aerial imaging from a fixed-wing airplane to get a broader picture of what’s happening throughout its vineyards. Those images can reveal differences in plant health, nutrient availability, insect pressure, water stress, and disease. That means irrigation doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Instead of watering an entire vineyard because a few plants are thirsty, growers can target the areas that actually need water.

Sometimes sustainability isn’t about doing less. It’s about being more precise. And the same philosophy extends beyond the vineyard. Michael David has also invested in solar power, with an initial 350-panel system designed to offset a portion of the winery’s electricity use, followed by additional panels intended to supply most or all of the energy needs of other winery facilities.

Another situation where lack of water was the problem was experienced by Paul Cluver whose winery is in South Africa’s Elgin Valley. Paul Cluver Wines experienced a significant water deficit between 2015 and 2017and yet yields increased. How? Paul Cluver’s approach essentially was to make better use of what nature provided. Alien vegetation such as eucalyptus and pine competed with vines for water, so managing those plants became part of the water strategy. Mulching helped retain moisture, irrigation was done at night to reduce evaporation, and vineyard netting was used to collect condensation. The philosophy was simple: You don’t necessarily need more resources. Sometimes you need to manage the resources you already have better.

What if you have too much water? Australia offers the perfect counterpoint. In Langhorne Creek, Frank Potts purchased fertile floodplain land in the 1850s. Rather than simply fighting the Bremer River, he engineered a system of pumps, floodgates, vats, and a lever press to work with the river’s annual flooding. The floods brought minerals and nutrients onto the land. The problem wasn’t too little water, it was sometimes too much, which could produce excessive canopy growth that then needed to be controlled. Same planet. Same goal. Completely different solution.

Sometimes the answer is under your feet. At Villa Maria in New Zealand, sustainability takes a different form. Above ground, the vineyard uses organic farming practices and encourages biodiversity through worms, bees, and flowers. Below ground, drip irrigation is positioned close to the vine roots. That reduces evaporation and directs water where it is actually needed instead of encouraging unwanted vegetation between the rows. Again, the goal isn’t simply use less water. It’s use water intelligently.

And then there’s Virginia. Virginia presents its own challenge. With its wet, humid growing conditions, vineyards here face a very different environment from California or South Africa. Fully organic and biodynamic certification can be particularly difficult under those conditions. Virginia, therefore, has its own sustainability initiatives, including the Virginia Green program, which addresses areas such as recycling, water reduction, energy use, and environmental practices tied to cost savings. DuCard Vineyards provides a particularly interesting Virginia example. Owner Scott Elliff was recognized as Virginia’s Greenest Vineyard in 2015. Solar panels provide power for heating, cooling, lighting, and winery operations. Even wastewater becomes part of the sustainability plan: An artificial wetland system uses plants to help filter wastewater and remove sugars and other materials. When Elliff was asked why he pursued a green winery designation, his answer was refreshingly practical: It simply made sense to do the best they could for the planet while operating the entire business sustainably. And, he noted, customers appreciated it.

What if your wastewater could become fertilizer? One of the most fascinating examples comes from O’Neill Vintners & Distillers. Their wastewater treatment system uses BioFiltro’s Biodynamic Aerobic System, which combines filtration with one of nature’s most unlikely cleanup crews: Earthworms. Wastewater is filtered to remove inorganic solids and then passed through layers containing earthworms, sawdust, and gravel. The worms consume polluted solids, while the resulting biological activity helps remove contaminants from the water. The treated water can then be disinfected and reused for irrigation. And the system creates two useful byproducts: Earthworms and organic material that can be used as fertilizer. The company describes the system as a carbon-neutral, renewable environmental solution. It’s hard to look at that and not think:

Maybe sustainability isn’t about eliminating waste. Maybe it's about finding out whether your waste is actually a resource waiting to be used differently. In Sicily, the SOStain Sicilia Foundation approaches sustainability by looking at the entire ecosystem and asking how agricultural practices can preserve resources and diversity for future generations. Tasca d’Almerita, for example, has committed to obtaining a significant portion of its energy from renewable sources, while recognizing that agricultural machinery remains one of the harder pieces of the energy puzzle. But the vineyard work gets even more interesting. Rather than treating every acre the same, the vineyard mapped its soil types clay, limestone, sand, and silt, and considered those differences alongside climate and rainfall when selecting rootstocks and grape varieties.

Even the grass growing between the vines is carefully considered. In a hot, dry season, the wrong cover crop could compete with the vines for water or contribute to excess humidity. Italian rye grass provides a different solution, growing during the winter and dying back during the hot, dry season while also supporting root development and nutrient absorption. It’s a reminder that sometimes the most sustainable decision in a vineyard happens before the first vine is planted.

And then someone put wine on a sailboat. If sustainability is about examining the entire journey from vineyard to consumer, eventually you have to ask: How does the wine get here? In May 2022, an 80-foot French schooner called Grain de Sail arrived in Brooklyn carrying 18,000 bottles of organic and biodynamic wine. Check the date?! We are not talking about colonial times. It had crossed the Atlantic under sail. The voyage took 25 days. At first, that sounds like an extraordinary and probably impractical way to move wine around the world. But the economics become more interesting when you look at the entire system. The ship doesn’t simply sail back empty. It continues to the Dominican Republic, where it loads cocoa and coffee for the return trip. The company reported €10 million in revenue in 2022 and was already planning a second, larger vessel to increase its capacity and take advantage of economies of scale. Suddenly, sustainability isn’t just something happening in the vineyard. It’s happening in the supply chain.

So, what does sustainable wine actually mean? After looking at vineyards and wineries from California to South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Virginia, Sicily, and even across the Atlantic, the best definition of sustainable may not be a certification logo or a particular farming method. Maybe it’s a mindset. It’s asking whether there is a better way to use water. Whether the soil can remain healthy for the next generation. Whether energy can come from something other than fossil fuels. Whether wastewater has to be waste. Whether technology can help a grower make better decisions. Whether a community can work together instead of every vineyard solving the same problem independently. And, eventually, whether there is a better way to get that bottle of wine from the vineyard to your table.

Sustainability doesn’t have one recipe. It has thousands of solutions and the best ones are often the solutions that make sense for the place, the people, and the resources involved. So the next time you pick up a bottle labeled sustainable, perhaps don’t just ask, “What does that label mean?” Ask: “What did they do to earn it?” Because there might be a whole story in that bottle.

 

 

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